Bourgogne is perhaps the most complex and intimidating of French wine regions.
It enjoys an exceptional geographical location, but it has plenty of other things going for it. Perfect weather for growing grapes, rich soils, renowned varietals and its remarkable Climats all combine to produce its 84 appellations that are recognized around the world. Not forgetting the expertise of its winegrowers, who hand down their know-how from generation to generation, whilst remaining up-to-speed with all the latest developments
The first to begin to recognize and codify the differences between vineyards were the Cistercian monks. They helped give us our notion of terroir. Most of the vineyards belonged to the church and nobility until the French Revolution, when they were redistributed and often split between several proprietors. They were further fragmented because of the inheritance law in the Napoleonic Code, which decreed that vineyards must be split equally among one’s heirs. Thus, today, one can buy several wines from a single vineyard, each from a different producer.
One major aspect of Bourgogne’s fascination is that it has few major grape varieties and is rarely a blend.
Since everyone is working with the same varieties, it brings the terroir into even more stark relief. The Bourgogne region is home to some celebrated varietals. With more than 80% planted with Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, the Bourgogne winegrowing region is also a showcase for Gamay and Aligoté.
The region provides ideal weather conditions and a terroir that is perfectly suited to bring out their very best. Bourgogne’s winegrowers favor four varietals: Chardonnay (white), accounting for 48% of land under vine, Pinot Noir (red), with 34% ; Gamay (red) and Aligoté (white) which account for 10% and 6% respectively. Sauvignon, César, Pinot Beurot, Sacy, Melon, and a few other minor varietals make up the remaining 2%
A winegrowing region of many different facets and the birthplace of some inimitable wines
Let’s begin in northern Bourgogne with Chablis and the Grand Auxerrois. Mid-way between Beaune and Paris, the Chablis winegrowing region stretches over around 20 communes. Nestled among the valleys and wooded hilltops, the vineyards cover the hillsides running alongside the pretty Serein Valley. The vines sink their roots deep into the characteristic kimmeridgian clay-limestone soil, drawing on them for their characteristic mineral aromas.
The Grand Auxerrois covers a multitude of very old small plots which are today sorted into the Auxerrois, the Tonnerrois, the Vézelien and the Jovinien.
Further south are the Côte de Nuits and Hautes Côtes de Nuits. The reputation of the appellations of the Côte de Nuits is firmly established. Some have even gone so far as to name this exceptional terroir the Champs-Elysées of the Bourgogne winegrowing region. This sophisticated pseudonym also explains the reality of the terrain. Between Dijon and Corgoloin, the wines grow along a narrow strip of hillside that is around 20km long and in parts, just 200 meters wide.
The Hautes Côtes de Nuits region, where the vines are cultivated on two plateaus between 300-400m above sea level almost fell into disuse at one point, has led a patient and courageous campaign for survival. As such, the region has enjoyed a veritable renaissance since the 1950s. Back then, the region’s winemakers selected the slopes that would produce the best grapes.
The Côte de Beaune and the Hautes Côtes de Beaune
Between Ladoix-Serrigny and the hillsides of the Maranges, the Côte de Beaune winegrowing region covers 20km from north to south. Facing the morning sun, these vineyards are never more than a few hundred meters wide. Yet they produce red and white wines that are internationally renowned. Their reputation also extends to the town of Beaune, the historical center for Bourgogne wines.
A little farther to the west, behind the Côte de Beaune, the vines flourish on a gently concave plateau, 400m above sea level. This is the Hautes Côtes de Beaune. On the sunniest slopes, around 20 communes produce lively and accessible wines from the Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Beaune appellation.
Between the Côte de Beaune to the north and the hills of the Mâconnais to the south, the Côte Chalonnaise is some 25km long by 7km wide. Here, in the heart of a landscape spiked with hills, the plots of vines have been planted on the best southeast-facing slopes. For a thousand years, the vines have plunged their roots into soil similar to those of the nearby Côte de Beaune. Enjoying hot summers and dry weather in the fall, the grapes have no problem ripening here. A little farther to the west, on the other side of the Canal du Centre, is the Couchois. To the south of the Hautes Côtes de Beaune, this winegrowing terroir is nestled at between 200-300m above sea level. Here, six communes produce wines of character, the quality of which has been recognized since 2000 when it was awarded the AOC Bourgogne Côte du Couchois.
The most southerly terroir in the Bourgogne winegrowing region, the Mâconnais, known for its white wines, covers a 10k-wide strip of vines 35km long, between Sennecey-le-Grand and Saint-Vérand. The region nestles between two valleys, the Grosne to the west and the Saône to the east. This is a winegrowing region with two faces. To the southwest of Tournus, the Monts du Mâconnais are a succession of wooded hilltops and little valleys, ideal for vine cultivation. Further to the south, the hills give way to a grandiose landscape that is dominated by some monumental outcrops, including those of Vergisson and Solutré. The vines can be found on the slopes where soil and sunshine permit.
(hide)
Stay Connected
Get our free newsletter
SubmitSnooth Newsletters